Monday, May 7, 2012

Just finished pouring ceramic porcelain slip - BJD doll parts

A screenshot of my justin.tv vid. (6 minutes)
I just made a video on justin.tv. It's a few seconds of panning across my muddy molds. I am hoping to make 5 sets from this batch, which will go to one single diorama. The pieces have dried, but they have to be smoothed out. Then I'll put them in the kiln.

Check out my script / book DOLLMAN THE MUSICAL - A Memoir Of An Artist As A Dollmaker. The e-book version is now on Amazon.com, Barnes&Noble.com and Smashwords.com. It's also on Apple. I hope you like the book. I submitted it to some Hollywood film companies and 2 weeks ago DreamWorks Animation called me and wanted my release so they can read and evaluate it. It's a good sign, especially since they called Monday at 9 a.m. their California time. Maybe other companies are reviewing it as well, I don't know yet. :-)

Thursday, January 12, 2012

DOLLMAN THE MUSICAL eBook is now on Amazon and Barnes & Noble

Dollman The Musical - A Memoir of an Artist as a Dollmaker by Artist Valentino Zubiri
It took a while, but Dollman The Musical - A Memoir of an Artist as a Dollmaker is now available on Barnes & Noble and Amazon. This is why I haven't been posting or working on my actual dolls. I let some people read the draft, and they said they cried a few times, they wanted to hug me, etc. and some called it "poignant" and they said it changed something in them and made them feel good.

Initially, I was going to print a few copies to send to some literary agents, but I eventually decided to let the public decide if it is worth further related projects, including an intensive, full-length book or its actual staging and collaboration with a composer (the lyrics are in the book, but I want to collaborate with some key people). I wanted the cover to be kinda simple, as if it's a script... It is a real script, and I even did not include too much emotion, making you the director of your emotions, and leaving some parts intentionally vague and  more open to discussion and interpretation.

Dollman The Musical - A Memoir of an Artist as a Dollmaker is a great, quick read, but it has it's drama. I hope it inspires and uplifts people, especially those who had to deal with child abuse, terminal illness of kids, pedophilia and incest. If you are a parent, I would recommend this to you. 



If you don't have a Nook (Barnes&Noble) or Kindle (Amazon), they also have free apps so you can read their eBooks on your laptop, desktop, pc or Mac, or other gadgets. The eBooks posted are formatted differently for the Kindle or Nook, so make sure you go to your correct store. Please support and give a really great review.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

My Current Writing Projects Related to My Art

I'm polishing a screenplay about my interaction with a master artist. He reminds me of Robert de Niro. There's a twist. I want to send this to an agent in California who is involved with a nonprofit I highly respect.

I have a musical about being a dollmaker. It's about kids of all ages. I got some friends to read it. They cried at some parts. It's kinda sad, but there is redemption. I am sending this to a nonprofit organization with a famous founder.

I wrote a memoir from an artist's perspective of tips from my "mentors" from a certain time period. Some of them are famous.

I wrote another book about my encounter with a healer.

As an artist, I'm being watched by a few top galleries. I have yet to sell one piece, but I'm holding out because of a tip from a person who is highly regarded in the art field.

I've been going to Book Expo America, where I learn trends in the publishing industry and writing. When it rains, it pours, I believe, so I keep writing, just in case I start getting noticed -- which is now happening.

I guess this is what I can currently mention.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Doll Heads and Their Plaster Molds

It's way past bedtime, and I just wanted to share this with you. Today, I spent time making 8 heads. My "fantasy" was to make 30 full sets in one day. Obviously this was not to happen. I only got to this point, not because I'm lazy, but because all this just takes time. You have to have some patience. You also need to assure yourself that eventually you'll see some finished works.  
 I currently have 8 faces which can fit the current body that I have. This is the first full set, so I admit they are rough. I wonder if I should just maintain that roughness in all my future works. I was told by a gallery owner to keep it rough and don't even paint them. I still want to see how they would look like painted and dressed. Another gallery owner told me I need to refine it some more. I tend to agree, but I'm still proud of my progress. As soon as I start working on a new set of faces and bodies, I know I'll see an evolution of my work, which makes this worthwhile and worth showing (or even touring). 
 I'm too sleepy to extrapolate further. :-) 2 more pics below LOL.

Monday, October 17, 2011

How 200 grams of FASTfire BRONZclay looks like


I took these quick pictures of a pack of 200 grams FASTfire BRONZclay to show you how the actual pack looks like.

Like me, if you haven't really seen a pack of bronze clay, you would probably be surprised at the amount of clay you would receive. Like me, you probably would have been expective more than what gets shipped to you.

It took me weeks to make a decision to purchase a pack, and when I did, I waited for four days, impatiently tracking the UPS package online. On the day it was supposed to arrive, I had to wait outside my building to make sure that I don't miss the UPS truck, because my building has a problem with deliveries--there's no way for anyone to buzz the residents from the outside and our building has a reputation for missing deliveries and we end up going to the UPS (or Fedex) warehouse.

On that day, my phone rang, and I went inside to my unit, where I entertained a friend gripe about stuff. Then I remembered to come out again, while still on the phone, and, sure enough, I saw the UPS truck past my building and already parked on the next block! I ran and chase it, and waited for the driver to come back. Luckily I got my package!

Within the four days of waiting, I went to two art stores, just to pass the time, and I looked at some polymer clay packs, visualizing what the bronze clay pack would be like. I visualized the 200-gram amount to be a huge brick! My thoughts were on making huge villages with mountains in the backdrop made of bronze clay! Needless to say, I was disappointed at the amount that came in the mail.

NOTE: After the discussions about the pics, make sure you read the section below. I also ordered activated carbon, which I will mention later.


In the picture above, I placed the pack on top of a letter-sized (8 1/2 inches x 11 inches) unopened ream of paper and by a Sharpie pen. I figured most of you out there, especially artists, would have the paper and Sharpies around. 

Online, I thought that the pictures of the PMC (precious metal clay) packages were just showing the label. It turns out, those flat-looking images are the actual packages themselves! They just happen to look flat because the clay inside is flat. The wrapper looks like plastic and foil, to make sure that the clay does not dry up.

You can imagine how a 100-gram pack and 50-gram pack would be. They are probably packed the same way but even thinner. I don't think I'll ever buy a 100- or 50-gram pack, because they would be more expensive per gram, and I really could use more than 200 grams.


In the third picture, I folded back the edges of the pack so that what you see is the size of the actual clay inside.

Now, I wonder. Maybe, like me, you are also wondering: if this is bronze, then maybe gold clay is heavier(?) This would mean that the amount of gold clay in a pack might even be smaller than bronze clay! Hopefully only by a small fraction!

I have yet to order gold clay, but as it is, I am hesitant. If I'm going to make settings for my ceramic porcelain dolls, I might have to explore other possibilities other than metal clay. I had always been considering using some type of a darker (earth) clay for accessories, and then coating them with gold leaf. I might want to do that.

There is also something to say about gold leaf. Jewelry is usually electroplated. Metal for jewelry can start with bronze or copper, but before a layer of gold is plated on them, nickel has to be plated on first. Nickel does not oxidize and it acts as a barrier between the gold and the bronze. Without nickel, the bronze, in time, seeps through the gold layer and will oxidize, discoloring the gold. (Read more about this, because I did, and I am not yet considering to do all this.)

Gold leaf is actually more convenient. The layer of glue also serves as a barrier, so that the gold leaf will keep its color for a long time. My purpose for all this "research" is not to make jewelry. Gold leaf for me will do just fine.


The fourth picture shows how thin the pack is. I would say that the thickness is just a little above a quarter of an inch. I thought I was going to get a thick brick of bronze clay!

My estimation is that if you are looking to make jewelry, you can probably make from 8 to 12 decent-sized rings.

ACTIVATED COCONUT SHELL BASED CARBON

You might also forget a few other considerations. So here are some that I remember off-hand.

It turns out, bronze clay needs a kiln, a torch would not work like it would on gold clay. Other PMC's like gold clay can be torched, or placed on a gas stove (with the necessary contraptions). I bought a torch months ago, but I cannot use it on bronze clay. Bronze clay and copper clay oxidize, and so while the necessary temperature is reached, the least amount of oxygen should interact with the clay. Activated carbon is needed. I also had to purchase activated coconut shell-based carbon (approximately $17).

While inside the kiln, the metal clay should have as little contact with oxygen as possible, hence the need to bury the bronze (or copper) in a tray of activated carbon. There are two types of activated carbon available, coal and coconut shell. They are priced the same, but coconut shell is supposed to be better from what I have read.

AND, because of this needed procedure, the carbon needs a TRAY... You must remember that you need to use a tray that can withstand the temperatures of a kiln, and especially, the temperature needed by bronze clay. This means you have to buy the right tray... another expense. I decided to experiment, I have yet to prove this right or wrong...

I had an idea of just making a tray using my porcelain clay so I would not have to buy more and more stuff. I looked at the few trays available online for this process, but nothing sparked my interest. The reason for this is that the trays are mostly flat. Without having seen a pack of bronze clay, with visions of constructing an entire village made of bronze, I thought I need to be flexible with the tray shape. I might want to make something longer and higher than jewelry, so I figured I needed to make my own trays for the carbon.

I stuck to buying just the clay and the carbon, but if you are new to metal clay, and you decide to use bronze or copper, make sure that you also order the activated carbon, and maybe the appropriate tray for it.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

Don't go crazy on China Paint if you are painting porcelain ceramic or (in my case) ball-jointed (BJD) dolls

My swatches in my earlier posts which were made on bisque tiles that were either unglazed, or glazed with satin and matte finishes have a collection of seemingly numerous colors. I personally think I went crazy over the colors, thinking that I should probably satiate my curiosity and save on postage by getting all the colors of the rainbow.

The colors and additives cost me a little less than $300 in my estimation, and I could have gotten away with just spending half of that. What made me want to buy from two vendors were that the collection from Jean Nordquist was already great for painting dolls, but I got curious about the offerings of Paints and Porcelain and the owner Earleen Rowell (link here) was so nice to have given me tips about painting on porcelain that I wanted to buy from her as well. I also wanted to discover for myself the opalescent additives her store carried, which would not be for the dolls but might become useful to know and have experience with for future projects. I have plans to make chess sets in the future. (Chess sets would still break! I'm working with porcelain!)

I would recommend that if you are going to use China Paint for painting landscapes, flowers and still life, that you might want to get a good selection of assorted colors. However, if you're going to exclusively work with porcelain ceramic dolls, then just get a few colors to start. Most of the colors needed are earth tones, and you probably need 5 colors at the most, just for subtle differences in the browns and reds. Even the eye color doesn't have to be blue, it can be earth tone as well.

I'm still out of town and at a cafe, blogging. :-)

Friday, September 23, 2011

MY CURRENT CHINA PAINTS Part 2 for Painting on Porcelain (incl. ball-jointed porcelain dolls) on MATTE and SATIN Glazed Tiles


Sorry these two tiles took a while to post. I was busy with my theatre group, not to mention I'm not yet making a living off of my ceramic works.

I think I should use either the matte or satin glazes, as opposed to just painting on unglazed bisque, although my ceramic dolls are fully shrunk and sealed prior to painting. Supposedly the china paint sinks into the glaze, and if the pieces are unglazed, the china paint would still adhere to the doll parts, but it might not be as good. I'm just assuming this. Next time I paint over unglazed, I'll try to scrub the paint off after the kiln stage.